Greece, Where I Fell in Love for a Lifetime
For years, I had heard stories about the beauty of Greece—the light, the food, the history, the way life seems to slow down just enough to be enjoyed properly. Still, it took me until January 2024 to finally experience it myself. Now, looking back, I can say with confidence: Greece is not just a destination, it is a feeling. And it is one I will return to every single year.
First Impressions: Athens in Winter
My journey began in Athens, a city that surprised me in the most beautiful way. January may be winter, but Athens greeted us with clear blue skies, crisp air, and gentle sunshine. The city felt calm and authentic—far away from the hectic summer crowds. This time of year is ideal if you want to explore Athens at a slower pace. You can wander through ancient streets, enjoy long dinners, and truly take in the atmosphere without fighting for space or reservations.
We stayed at the Neoma Hotel, a small and charming boutique hotel tucked into the city. The interior is modern and thoughtfully designed, but the true highlight is the rooftop terrace. At night, the rooftop becomes magical. Having a private view over Athens, with the Acropolis glowing in the distance, is something I will never forget. One of the things I love most about Athens is that high-rise buildings are not allowed, which means you can see the Acropolis from almost everywhere in the city. Our room faced the street and a nearby hill. While it was cozy, the nights were a bit noisy—Greek drivers are fast and expressive, and the windows were not perfectly insulated. Still, this small inconvenience was easily forgotten thanks to what came next.
Breakfast at Neoma was outstanding. And it perfectly captured what Greece is all about: flexibility and warmth. Even though we arrived five minutes before breakfast closed, we were still served a gorgeous French toast and freshly brewed coffee without any hesitation. No stress, no rushing—just hospitality. And then there was my new obsession: Freddo Espresso. In Greece, this iced coffee is not just a summer drink. You will drink it all year round, no matter how cold it is outside.
January is perfect for romantic evenings in Athens. With fewer tourists, the city feels intimate and relaxed—ideal for long dinners and meaningful conversations.
One of the culinary highlights was Varoulko Seaside Restaurant, located next to a small yacht harbor. The setting is elegant yet peaceful, and the food is refined and creative. We chose the nine-course menu, which—honestly—was far too much. Greek dinners are long, and Greeks eat much later than Germans. By the time we finished, it was already quite late, and I was heartbroken that I could not manage the last few bites. Varoulko once held a Michelin star. While they no longer have it, the quality remains excellent, and the experience is still very much worth it.
Another favorite was Juan Rodriguez Bar. The wild, artistic interior immediately sets the tone, and the drinks were perfectly crafted. It is the kind of place where you want to stay longer than planned. Dinner at Metropolis Roof Garden was also unforgettable. Dining with a direct view of the Acropolis is something everyone should experience at least once.
Even in the quieter winter months, I highly recommend reserving all restaurants in advance. It makes the trip smoother and ensures a relaxed, enjoyable experience.
From Athens to Patras: A Different Side of Greece
Our next destination was Patras, a smaller city about two hours from Athens. It felt quieter, more local, and deeply rooted in tradition. What truly amazed me here was the strong historical connection to Bavaria.
One of the most impressive places I have ever visited is Achaia Clauss, an ancient vineyard just outside Patras. It was founded in the 19th century by Gustav Clauss, a Bavarian who fell in love with the region and recognized its winemaking potential. Over time, Italian families and other European partners joined forces, combining their expertise to create what would become some of Greece’s most iconic wines—most famously Mavrodaphne. Achaia Clauss has hosted royal guests, including Empress Sissi, and still holds a priceless collection of Mavrodaphne wines dating back to 1873. Walking through the cellars feels like stepping back in time. Massive oak barrels, decorated with intricate engravings and carvings, line the walls. Each one tells a story of craftsmanship, patience, and tradition.
The wine tasting experience was extraordinary. You get to taste several outstanding wines, learn about their history, and truly understand the depth of Greek winemaking. What impressed me most was the value for money. The quality of the wines compared to the price is exceptional. Even now, I still find myself thinking back to that day, deeply impressed by the passion and dedication behind every bottle.
Island Hopping in Greece: Milos, Folegandros and Santorini
After Athens and Patras, the journey continued with island hopping, which is, in my opinion, one of the best ways to experience Greece. It is surprisingly convenient and flexible, especially if you travel by car. Every ferry offers space for cars, and you can use the same vehicle on each island. Of course, it is also possible to rent a different car on every island, which works just as well. In our case, the island adventure began in Piraeus port. If you search online, you will find countless funny videos about Seajets and high-speed ferries. These ferries take you from one island to another in a relatively short time. During windy conditions, the ride can feel a bit challenging, but I did not experience the crazy waves you often see on Instagram. Overall, the ferry rides were comfortable and well organized, and much less dramatic than expected.
Milos: Beaches, Landscapes and Laid-Back Vibes
Our first island was Milos, an island known for its extraordinary beaches, small white churches, beach bars and amazing food. Milos is easy to explore by car, with plenty of roads connecting one side of the island to the other. However, some roads leading down to beaches are quite adventurous, steep and narrow, so it is important to inform yourself in advance before driving there. Around the main sightseeing spots, the roads are wider and much easier to navigate. The overall atmosphere on Milos is cozy and relaxed, and you are constantly surrounded by beautiful landscapes. The Plaka Castle is absolutely worth a short hike. From the top, you are rewarded with a stunning panoramic view over the island and the sea. It is especially beautiful during golden hour. Food in Milos was a highlight on its own. My personal favorite was Barriello. The chef was incredibly welcoming, and the combination of excellent food with this breathtaking view was simply perfect. For more casual meals, we loved having souvlaki at Glaronisia, and the calamari at Methismeni Politia was also outstanding. We were lucky enough to get a table at Utopia Café to watch the sunset. The view is spectacular, but to be honest, the drinks were not great. You really go there for the view—or you bring a bottle of wine and enjoy the moment anyway.
The boat trip was without a doubt the absolute highlight of Milos. Many of the island’s most beautiful beaches can only be reached by boat, so booking a guided tour is highly recommended. In our case, there were only four tourists in total, which made the experience feel very private and special. Depending on the weather conditions, the captain will take you to different beaches, so a bit of flexibility is essential. Sometimes the wind is simply too strong, and certain routes are not possible. Safety always comes first. My personal favorites were Kleftiko and Paralia Gerontas Beach. You have plenty of time to jump into the water, swim, and fully enjoy the crystal-clear sea. I did get a little sunburn, though—it was midday, and I am very pale. So bring plenty of sunscreen and be careful with the sun. It is much stronger than you might expect, even when the breeze feels cool. Even now, I am still dreaming of the deep blue water, dramatic rock formations and untouched beauty of Milos. It is one of those places that stays with you long after you leave.
Folegandros: Small, Charming and Full of Cats
Our next stop was Folegandros, a very small and quiet island with a completely different energy. Here, you will mostly find couples, travelers looking for peace, and an unbelievable number of cats. I truly think I have never seen so many cats in one place before. They are everywhere, calmly walking through the streets and sleeping in the sun, and somehow they fit perfectly into the relaxed rhythm of the island. The old town of Folegandros (Chora) is incredibly charming and has a very unique layout. The streets are carefully maintained, and many of the houses have been freshly painted, which gives the town a clean yet authentic look. In the middle of the old town, you will find a large open area where everyone naturally gathers in the evening.
This central square becomes the heart of the island at night. You can sit outside, enjoy the warm air, and choose between countless restaurants, wine bars, and cafés. There are so many good options that it is honestly difficult to decide where to go. For dinner, I can recommend the 1790 Wine Cave. It is a bit more fancy compared to many other restaurants on the island and offers a lovely atmosphere. That said, if I compare it directly, the food was not quite on the same level as my favorite places in Milos—but still very enjoyable and worth a visit. I also really loved having pancakes and Rakomelo at Lotzia. Rakomelo, a traditional Greek honey liquor, is especially comforting in the evening and fits perfectly with the cozy vibe of Folegandros. For something sweet, the ice cream at ParasAgas was excellent.
Some of my favorite moments, however, were the spontaneous ones—having a glass of wine in the evening at one of the small, hidden bars tucked away in the narrow streets. Unfortunately, I cannot remember their names anymore, but maybe that is part of the magic. Folegandros is not about ticking off places from a list; it is about slowing down, enjoying simple pleasures, and letting the island guide you.
Santorini: Beautiful Hotels, Mixed Feelings
The last island before heading back to the continent was Santorini. I already expected it to be highly touristic and very different from what Instagram and travel agencies usually show. Still, I tried to keep an open mind. In the end, I have to say that Santorini felt overrated, and the biggest highlight of the entire stay was our hotel.
We stayed at Homeric Poems, and it was truly wonderful. Our room had a private terrace with an uninterrupted sea view, and the hotel itself felt calm, elegant, and personal. The staff was incredibly friendly and warm-hearted and gave us some genuinely good recommendations on where to go. Every morning, breakfast was served on our own terrace, which felt like pure luxury. Sitting there with coffee, enjoying the view over the caldera, was without a doubt the most beautiful start to the day. We could even spot cruise ships passing by, and my personal highlight was seeing the Ritz-Carlton Yacht, which looked incredibly luxurious from afar. The infinity pool was also stunning and added to the feeling of exclusivity and relaxation.
By accident—something I only realized later—I had booked a hotel located between Oía and Fira. As it turned out, this was pure luck. Fira is the main city of Santorini, while Oía is the place everyone shares online. And this is where the reality hit.
Oía is extremely crowded and lives almost entirely off tourism. Many of the famous photos show only very specific corners, a few perfectly framed houses, and carefully chosen angles. In reality, I felt that there were actually fewer white houses in Oía than in the area around our hotel. Oía is packed with souvenir shops, tour guides, massive crowds, and overpriced cafés and restaurants offering typical tourist food at high prices and surprisingly low quality. There are also many yellowish houses, which made the place feel even less like the Santorini you see online. What disappointed me most was the food scene. It was almost impossible to find something that felt both authentically Greek and genuinely delicious, especially when compared to Milos. Many dishes felt like a strange fusion designed for tourists rather than a reflection of Greek cuisine. The wine was also surprisingly underwhelming. We visited Anhydrous Winery (Avantis) for a small plate of food and a wine tasting. Unfortunately, the experience was disappointing. They used the same glass for every wine, which I have never seen in any high-end winery. When they started serving a mix of red and white wines in the same glass, we actually had to ask them to change it. That alone says a lot. Of course, we also did some of the classic tourist activities, like walking down the famous Oía steps with the horses and donkeys. People were generally friendly once they realized that one of us is Greek. At the same time, they openly mentioned that they mostly deal with tourists and do not really like tourism anymore, which created a strange atmosphere.
Overall, the vibe on Santorini left me with very mixed feelings. The hotels are stunning, no doubt about that. But beaches are rare, and the island lacks the relaxed, authentic feeling I experienced elsewhere in Greece. The only beach club we somewhat enjoyed was Forty One 41. It was clean, the staff was friendly, the burger was delicious, and the drinks were good. Still, compared to places like Dune Beach Club in Marbella (Spain), it could not keep up. On Santorini, you pay significantly more and receive noticeably less service. Honestly, the only real reason I would come back to Santorini would be the wonderful hotel we stayed at. Beyond that, the island did not live up to the magic that is so often promised.
Why Greece Will Always Call Me Back
This first trips to Greece changed something in me. From winter Athens with its calm charm and rooftop views, to the historic vineyards of Patras, Greece captured my heart completely. It took me a few years to finally go—but now I know: this is only the beginning. Greece is no longer just a place I visited. It is a place I will return to, again and again.